Outdoor CostCalculators

Cost estimator

Deck Replacement Cost Calculator

Enter deck size and material. Tear-out and railing are covered by the add-ons.

Cost estimator

Inputs

All measurements in feet

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Estimated total

National average

Enter your patio size to see an estimate.

These are ballpark figures based on national averages. Actual quotes vary with site access, season and contractor availability.

Updated: January 2026

What affects the price of a deck replacement

Replacing a deck usually costs more than the original build, because the old one has to come out first and the code has probably changed in the years since. Five levers drive the range.

Material. Pressure-treated pine is the cheapest, followed by cedar, composite and capped PVC. A replacement is a natural point to upgrade, because the labor cost is roughly the same regardless of board choice.

Frame condition. If the original joists, beams and ledger pass inspection, the crew can lay new boards on the existing frame. If the frame has rot or the ledger is failing, plan on a full tear-down and rebuild — and use the tear-out add-on in the calculator.

Railing and stairs. Modern codes require guardrails on any deck over 30 inches off grade, with balusters spaced under 4 inches. Older railings usually do not comply and need to come out with the deck.

Site access. A backyard reached only through a side gate slows demolition and material delivery. Cranes or lifts to reach a second-story deck add real money.

Region. Labor is 40% to 60% of a deck cost and swings by state. The selector in the calculator applies a multiplier to the whole estimate.

Replacement price by material

Installed cost per square foot for a deck built on an existing or rebuilt frame. Add tear-out, railing and stairs from the calculator add-ons when they apply.

Installed cost per square foot, national average
OptionLowHighUnit
Pressure-treated pine
Cheapest option, needs staining every 2-3 years.
$15$29/ sq ft
Cedar
Better looks, mid-range durability.
$19$35/ sq ft
Composite (Trex-style)
Capped wood-plastic composite, low maintenance.
$22$42/ sq ft
Capped PVC
All-plastic, longest lifespan, cool-touch options.
$25$48/ sq ft

Cost by common deck size

Total installed cost, composite boards on a rebuilt frame. Tear-out and railing are not included here — add them in the calculator.

Total installed cost, composite
OptionLowHigh
10 x 12 (120 sq ft)
$2,800$5,300
12 x 14 (168 sq ft)
$3,900$7,500
12 x 16 (192 sq ft)
$4,400$8,400
16 x 20 (320 sq ft)
$7,400$14,100
20 x 24 (480 sq ft)
$11,100$21,200
Total installed cost, pressure-treated
OptionLowHigh
10 x 12 (120 sq ft)
$1,900$3,600
12 x 14 (168 sq ft)
$2,600$5,100
12 x 16 (192 sq ft)
$3,000$5,700
16 x 20 (320 sq ft)
$5,000$9,600
20 x 24 (480 sq ft)
$7,400$14,400

What is included in these estimates

The base ranges cover a same-size replacement on a sound frame. Included:

  • New decking boards, matching fasteners (hidden clips for composite, screws for wood).
  • Rim board and blocking where needed.
  • Standard perimeter railing built into the material cost.
  • Labor for layout, cutting, board installation and cleanup.
  • A 10% waste factor.

Not included, unless you check the matching add-on:

  • Tear-out and disposal of the old deck. Add $3 to $8 per square foot.
  • New railing where the original does not meet code. Add $25 to $60 per linear foot.
  • New stairs. Add $150 to $400 per step.
  • New footings, joists or ledger board if the frame is failing. Budget $8 to $18 per square foot for structural work.
  • Under-deck drainage, skirting, or built-in benches.
  • Any permit fees over the base allowance.

Signs your deck actually needs replacement

The hardest decision on a deck project is repair vs replace. Some wear is normal; other symptoms mean full replacement is safer and cheaper long-term.

Green light for full replacement:

  • Ledger board pulling away from the house, or visible rust on the ledger fasteners. This is a life-safety issue and the top cause of catastrophic deck collapses.
  • Footings visibly heaved or sinking; the whole deck slopes noticeably.
  • Multiple joists show soft rot when probed with a screwdriver — the tip sinks in without much pressure.
  • Structural posts wobble when pushed at railing height.
  • Railings do not pass the 200-pound side-load test (lean on the railing at chest height; it should not move).
  • Deck was built before 2000 and has never had the ledger flashing inspected.

Yellow light — resurface may work:

  • Boards weathered, splintering or heavily cupped, but joists still solid.
  • Railing looks dated but is structurally fine.
  • One or two joists show early rot at the ends only.

Green light for repair only:

  • Fewer than 20% of boards need replacement.
  • Frame passes probe test everywhere.
  • Railing meets current code.

Cost comparison at a glance. Board-only resurface runs 40% to 60% of a full replacement in the same material. Full frame-and-boards replacement in the same material as the original is only 15% to 25% more expensive than board resurface. Upgrading material at replacement (pressure-treated to composite) adds another 30% to 60%.

The break-even math. If the frame has more than 5 years of life left and cosmetic issues are the main complaint, resurface wins. If the frame has less than 5 years or safety is in question, replace now — you will replace anyway, and doing it once is cheaper than paying labor twice.

When it makes sense to DIY

A deck replacement is a bigger DIY undertaking than a fresh build because you have to demo first. Tear-out is dirty, slow and produces a truckload of nail-filled scrap. Rules of thumb:

  • Board-only replacement on a sound frame, under 200 sq ft, in pressure-treated: worth trying for an experienced DIYer with a circular saw and two weekends.
  • Board and railing replacement, up to 300 sq ft: borderline. Rentable tools help, but code-compliant railing is fiddly and requires careful measurement.
  • Full tear-out and rebuild, any size: hire a pro. Ledger attachment, footing sizing and joist layout are the parts most homeowners get wrong.
  • Composite or capped PVC boards: borderline for DIY. The material is more forgiving on straightness but the hidden fastener system takes a project to learn.

Doing a 12x16 board-only replacement in pressure-treated saves roughly 40% to 50% versus hiring out. In composite the savings shrink to about 25% to 35% because the material cost is closer to the labor.

Frequently asked questions

How much does it cost to replace a deck?

A same-size replacement in pressure-treated lumber runs about $18 to $37 per square foot with tear-out and new railing. Composite or PVC replacements land between $28 and $58 per square foot. Structural repairs to the frame add $8 to $18 per square foot.

Is it cheaper to repair or replace a deck?

If the frame is sound and only the boards and railing are worn, resurfacing costs 40% to 60% of a full replacement. If the joists show rot, the ledger board is failing, or the footings are lifting, full replacement is the safer and often cheaper long-term call.

How long does a deck replacement take?

Tear-out is usually one day. A crew of two can frame and board a 200 sq ft deck in three to five days. Larger or multi-level decks run one to two weeks. Composite goes faster than wood because the boards are consistent and pre-finished.

Do I need a permit to replace a deck?

Most jurisdictions require a permit for a rebuild that touches the ledger board, footings or railing, even if the footprint stays the same. A same-size, same-height board replacement often does not. Check your local code before scheduling.

Can I keep the old deck frame and just replace the boards?

Only if the joists, beams and ledger pass inspection. Composite boards weigh more than wood and need joist spacing of 16 inches or less on center. If the original frame was built to 24 inches, you will need to sister in extra joists before laying composite.

What is the best decking material for replacement?

For lowest upfront cost, pressure-treated. For the best price-to-durability ratio and low maintenance, composite. For premium look and no maintenance, capped PVC. Cedar sits in the middle on cost but needs sealing every 2 to 3 years.